[hpsdr] Atlas, How do I hand solder this thing?

[Christopher T. Day]

Mark,

 

I've pasted in some expanded construction notes I wrote for the RefLock
II. They are a bit more complete than what is in the Atlas Manual. There
is also a pointer there to a description of the "two-fisted" soldering
technique which I now prefer.

 

I would strongly recommend first-timers practice with the NorCal SMD
Dummy Load Kit, http://www.norcalqrp.org/ncdummyload.htm. It is very
inexpensive, ~$10, uses slightly larger parts and is a lot of repeats
with parts that are not static sensitive. Besides, it's a useful gadget
to have around.

 

You should definitely try to get some kind of optical magnifier to work
with. I have _not_ found a binocular microscope to be necessary yet. I
use a clamp-on magnifier lamp I got at Staples for ~$20.

 

Since all hands will be occupied with soldering irons, solder, whatever,
you will need something to firmly hold the PCB in place while working on
it. There are a bunch of third-hand gadgets out there that should work
for not much money. I came across a PanaVise with heavy base and PCB
holder at my local Fry's Electronics [may only be "local" in Greater
Silicon Valley] and use that.

 

Good luck! It gets to be addictive, and watch for flying parts!

 

 

            Chris - AE6VK

 

 

P.S. - I'm 58.

 

 

 
Tool suggestions:
 
A magnifying lamp or equivalent. The parts and silk-screen markings are
quite small.
 
A pair of tweezers with sharp points and a soft squeeze. Check local
cosmetic boutiques. If the tweezers are too stiff, there will be a lot
of energy stored in them while you are trying to manipulate tiny parts;
a slip will send the part flying into oblivion.
 
Some kind of "third-hand" to firmly hold the circuit board while you are
soldering parts. I used a Panavise with circuit board holder head.
 
One, preferably two, sharp tipped 15W soldering irons. I got mine at
RadioShack.
 
In a few cases, 15W will not supply enough heat so something bigger will
be needed. I used a small 100W soldering gun; I would be careful going
to higher power, and 50W is probably sufficient.
 
A non-clean flux pen is handy. I found a Kester #951 pen at my local
RadioShack.
 
Keep the tweezers non-magnetized and the tips clean of adhesive from the
parts tapes. It can be frustrating to place the part perfectly and then
not be able to let go of it.
 
Keep the soldering iron tips sharp, and clean with a damp sponge, cloth
or paper towel.
 
Use anti-static precautions. Ground yourself just before touching
components, or use a grounding wrist strap. The CPLD at least is static
sensitive.
 
For soldering techniques, I basically followed the procedures described
at http://www.tapr.org/~n7hpr/dsp-10. I particularly like the twin
soldering iron technique for handling SMD resistors and capacitors. One
modification I made to the process was to put down some flux _before_
tinning the pad and placing the components. The parts in this project
are smaller than those on the DSP-10, and these tend to stick to the
flux pen.
 
It should take no more than a second or two with the irons to melt the
solder for each of the small parts. Don't linger as the small pads will
delaminate if too much heat is applied.

 

  _____  

From: Mark Ericksen [mailto:merickse at tampabay.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 9:02 AM
To: hpsdr at hpsdr.org
Subject: [hpsdr] Atlas, How do I hand solder this thing?

 

I need help.  I have two Atlas boards coming, and I have never soldered
surface mount in my life.  I have performed a lot of soldering over the
years, but not surface mount.  Are there links to sights that show the
proper way to solder these boards as they are constructed (gold pads)?
Keep in mind I am 54 years old and the eyes are failing.  This question
may have been answered before, and if that is the case I apologize in
advance.

 

Eric Ellison, I want you to know how much I appreciate your efforts in
distributing these boards as well as boards from prior projects.  You
helped me out on a Delta 44 interface card a while back, and you went
out of your way to do it.  You have a tremendous commitment to the hobby
as well as a commitment to helping others and I thank you.

 

Mark Ericksen

AD4MA

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