[hpsdr] Penelope T2 orientation - soldering

[AA8K73 GMail]

Hi Dale,


In November/2009, Luis and Graham describe using ChipQuik,
in February/2011, Scotty describes technique and
Joe also endorses using ChipQuik [Bismuth?].
See quotes below.

Here is a short video showing ChipQuik technique
that I found helpful.  Yes, there is an ad first.
< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTQqjggeklo >


Can anyone recommend a temperature setting for my
soldering iron to melt the original TAPR board solder?
I fear melting the transformer or lifting a trace.


Mike - AA8K

> ***** High Performance Software Defined Radio Discussion List *****
>
> All:
>
> I would like to support Luis' recommendation.
>
> ChipQuik is sold at Fry's, and most distributors.  A kit is about $11.
> Includes flux, and about a foot of the low temperature solder.
> (Which will last you for years.  Just don't get it mixed up with your
> regular solder.  You will use about one-half inch to do the transformer
> rework.)
>
> You will also need some "solder wick."
>
> The ChipQuik solder is a very low temperature indium solder that melts
> at about 150 degrees F. ( around 70 degrees C)
>
> Use solder wick to pick up as much of the existing solder as you can
> on each lead.  Then go in with the flux and add the indium solder.
>
> Use your iron tip to heat the leads, each a few times.  When the entire part
> gets up to about 150 degrees F, it will lift off the board.
>
> Clean up all the  indium solder with solder wick, on the board and the
> transformer.
>
> Then solder it back down with regular solder in the correct position.
>
> --- Graham / KE9H
>
> ==

---------------------------------------------------------

> ***** High Performance Software Defined Radio Discussion List *****
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> The short answer is - yes, you will get closer.
>
> The long answer is - how much closer?  You *will* be closer, but you will have to try it to see if it is *sufficient* for your needs.
>
> Be very careful with heat on T2 or you will melt it.  I have found that the best way is to first use solder-wick to remove as much solder as you can on all of the pins. Then you can use a sharp X-acto knife to gently pry up each pin while applying some heat.  When you have it loose, straighten the pins back out and re-solder it down.
>
> It is not hard if you are careful and patient.
>
> 73,
> Scotty WA2DFI

---------------------------------------------------------

> ***** High Performance Software Defined Radio Discussion List *****
>
> I've learned that CHIPQUIK makes such tasks a an absolute snap without endangering the circuit board traces (http://www.chipquikinc.com/).
>
> 73 Joe K5SO



On 08/25/2013 12:20 AM, dmb at lightstream.net wrote:
> ***** High Performance Software Defined Radio Discussion List *****
>
> Now that I have the Munin kit and plan to *finally* put Penelope on the
> air, I've been testing it to be sure that it still works.
>

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